“Refogar” - a quintessential technique in Brazilian cooking

  

            Nearly all Brazilian dishes start with a “refogado”, that is, chopped onion and/or garlic (see variations below) sautéed in vegetable oil - or some other fat - until golden brown. To this, the ingredients to be cooked are added and briefly sautéed before the addition of liquids (if any). It is that simple, but it can make a huge difference in the final dish. For example: it is this initial step that sets Brazilian rice apart from other rice cooking methods, giving the grains a chewier and firmer texture, as well as a sautéed onion flavor.

            “Refogar” (the verb) can be the initial and, sometimes, the only cooking technique used to prepare a vegetable, as you will see from the recipes bellow. But most often it works as the “browning” step for braising (to cook food slowly in a small amount of liquid), a technique which is also widely used in Brazilian cuisine.

            The secret to a good “refogado” is: i) chop all the ingredients about the same size, so they will cook uniformly; ii) add garlic (if using) after onion, as it browns much faster; iii) sauté onion, garlic, etc. until golden brown, over moderate to high heat, without covering the pan - to sweat them (cook slowly in fat without browning) will not produce the desired taste and appearance.

            The fat of choice is, again, vegetable oil, although it was pork lard until a few decades ago, before vegetable oil became more readily available - very tasty, but not very healthy considering nowadays lifestyle. You can also use olive oil, butter (preferably clarified, so it will not get burned) and bacon drippings. Here are some other ingredients to include in your “refogado”:

• chopped bacon (use less oil, add onion, etc. only after bacon is golden brown)
• chopped scallion / green onions (add green parts after white ones, if using)
• celery (finely chopped)
• leek (sliced, white parts first)
• green bell pepper (finely chopped, in small quantities)

            Now, a couple of very simple recipes for you to try. They all pair well with Brazilian rice and beans and the protein of your choice (braised pork loin seasoned with salt, black pepper and lime juice, in this picture).

Abóbora refogada

(Braised Squash / Pumpkin)

2 Tbsp vegetable oil

3 Tbsp thinly sliced onion

1 tsp finely chopped garlic

3 cups 1-in cubed peeled pumpkin, butternut or acorn squash

1/2 cup water, approximately

salt and pepper to taste

2-3 Tbsp chopped parsley and/or cilantro

1. In a heavy pan, heat oil over medium heat.

2. Add onion and sauté for a few seconds. Add garlic and sauté until golden brown.

3. Add squash and sauté for about 5 minutes, stirring constantly.

4. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Add half the water, to start with, and stir well. 

5. Lower the heat and cook, covered, adding more water if necessary, for 15-20 minutes, or until most of the water has evaporated and the squash is tender and begins to fall apart.

6. Right before serving, sprinkle with chopped parsley and/or cilantro.

Verdura refogada

(Sautéed Green Leaf Vegetable)

1 Tbsp vegetable oil

1 Tbsp finely chopped onion

1 tsp finely chopped garlic

4-5 cups finely shredded collard greens, or kale, or escarole, or mustard greens, or cabbage, or any other tough, green leaf vegetable

salt and pepper to taste

1.  In a large, heavy pan, heat oil over medium-high heat.

2. Add onion and sauté for a few seconds. Add garlic and sauté until golden brown.

3. Add shredded vegetable and toss well so the onion and garlic are not in contact with the bottom of the pan anymore (or they will get too brown and become bitter).

4. Lower the heat, cover the pan and let cook for about 5-10 minutes, stirring occasionally (or to the doneness of your preference - I like mine al dente). Add a few drops of water, if necessary.

5. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper (Brazilians would probably add pepper only to the cabbage) and serve.

Tip: if you are preparing cabbage, add 1 ripe tomato cut into wedges or cubed to the pan before covering it.

Bom apetite!

Black-Eyed Peas & Collards

I have spent very little time in the Southern states and I am always intrigued by the beautiful and well-established food culture that seems so foreign to my palate. I have cooked for a lovely Southern couple for quite a while now and at the start they commented that my cuisine is more California then Southern and if there is an opportunity to put fat or sugar in a dish- I should go for it. You have to enjoy that license to cook!

I love the idea of black-eyed peas and the simplicity of preparing them even from scratch. I am came up with this recipe when I was following a detox and needed a clean, vegetable-bean dish that felt hearty and filling. Since I am no longer on the detox I occasionally toss in a few ham chunks, but without them this dish is Vegan. To give a smokey flavor I add in one of my favorite spices, smoked paprika which I buy from the lovely Savory Spice Shop. I am sure my clients would tell me without the ham hock in this dish more 'Californian' but what can I say- I spent a few years there and maybe Black-Eyed Peas needed a little West Coast love... or interpretation.

Black-eyed Peas unlike other beans do not need to be soaked prior to cooking. You can throw them in a pot rinsed & dry, cover with water and cook up for 45 minutes to an hour. If you want to speed things up a Pressure Cooker makes beans cook up like pasta- since it is only about 10-12 minutes in a pressure cooker.

Creole Black-eyed Peas with Collard Greens

1 teaspoon olive oil
1/2 large onion, chopped
1 rib celery, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 cans black eyed peas or 2 cups cooked black eyed peas
15 ounce can diced roasted tomatoes
1 (generous) teaspoon smoked paprika
1 teaspoon dried oregano or 1 tbls fresh oregano
1 teaspoon salt (or to taste)
1/8 teaspoon cayenne (or more to taste)
1 tablespoon hot sauce (or to taste)
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
6 ounces ham, cut into chunks (optional)

In a large pot over medium heat drizzle in the olive oil, sauté the onion and celery for about 5-6 minutes until tender. Add in the remaining ingredients, except the spicy cayenne, hot sauce and black pepper. Simmer for about 5 minutes, then start adding the spices seasoning to your desired taste. Stir in the ham chunks if using. Serve with the collard greens on the side.


Collard Greens
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 garlic clove, minced fine
1 bunch of collard greens, rinse of all of the dirt, shake dry & slice into short strips
salt and pepper to taste

Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add in the olive oil and garlic. Warm up and once the garlic starts to sizzle slightly (usually soon- so be ready) toss in the collard greens and sauté until the greens have just wilted.

Complete this meal with a side a cornbread! Maybe try out this Gluten-Free Sweet Potato Cornbread.

Here is a Black-eyed Pea Soup with Collards that looks lovely as well!

The "rice-and-beans" of Brazilian food

Rice and beans are so important for Brazilian cuisine that when we say something is “o arroz com feijão” (the rice and beans) of something else, we mean “the basics”, “the foundation”. So, let me try and explain some of the most basic, general differences between Brazilian and North American eating habits and their food staples to start with.

Brazilians usually have three main meals a day - a light breakfast right after waking up, a substantial lunch between noon and 2 pm, and dinner around 7 or 8 pm - in general, lighter than lunch (a full size soup with bread, or a salad, or some pasta, etc).

For breakfast, most people have coffee (strong coffee!), or coffee and milk (called “média”, when it's lighter, or “pingado”, when it's darker), and “pão francês” (similar to a baguette, but smaller and with a softer center - see picture; I’ll write more about it later) with butter. Some people make the meal more substantial by adding some cheese and ham to it, but bacon, sausage and even eggs are regarded as lunch / dinner (or maybe brunch) items, not breakfast. A variety of fresh fruit and their juices, sometimes mixed with milk instead of water, may be consumed as accompaniments. And there’s also the “pão-de-queijo” (a savory tapioca starch roll with cheese)... But this is worth a post itself, so I’ll leave it for later.

For lunch, people usually have rice and beans, a small amount of protein (about 5 oz; beef, chicken and pork are the most popular meats), at least one cooked vegetable (frequently braised) - such as pumpkin, chayote, and broccoli, shown in the first picture of this post - and salad greens (lettuce, arugula, watercress), with tomatoes and/or other raw or cold additions, such as grated carrots or beets, hearts of palm, cucumber and sliced onion.

Well, this is the basic “rule” - which means there are countless exceptions. My point here is just to state that: i) rice and beans are the base of Brazilian cooking, and the preferred accompaniment to everyday meals, as opposed to, say, mashed potatoes in the U.S.; ii) although meat is an important part of the meal, it is usually consumed in smaller amounts. In a country where hunger has been an issue for so long, the “rice-and-beans” diet may have saved many impoverished people from starvation and even malnutrition, as rice and beans, when eaten together, constitute a high-quality, or complete, protein - containing the 20 essential amino acids.   

Brazilian rice is prepared more or less like a pilaf, but the fat of choice is vegetable oil (a plain, flavorless one, preferably) - as you can see in the recipe below. Beans are mostly cooked in a pressure cooker with water only and, after that, seasoned with garlic and salt, among other things (later I’ll post the recipe for cooking beans in a pressure cooker; for now, check the recipe with canned beans).

There are many types of beans in Brazil - the largest consumer and producer of the legume in the world, with approximately 3.5 million tons harvested every year. The most popular beans are “feijão carioca / carioquinha” (similar to pinto beans), with 85% of the market, followed by black beans, with 10% (more common in Rio de Janeiro state, but mandatory in the preparation of the Brazilian national dish, “feijoada” - more soon!). The remaining 5% of sales are specialty beans, such as “jalo”, “fradinho”, “rosinha”, “bolinha”, “branco”, “verde”, “azuki” and “roxinho”.

Brazilian white rice

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 tablespoon finely chopped onion

1 cup white rice (long grain)

2 cups cold water, approximately (preferably filtered)

1 tsp salt

- If rice is not pre-washed, rinse it until water is clear and let it dry in a colander before using. Beware that you’re probably going to use less water to prepare it in this case.

- Heat oil in a saucepan and add onion. Fry over medium heat until it is soft and translucent.

- Add rice. Fry, over medium heat, stirring constantly, until grains are whitish and chalky (grains start forming lumps).

- Add 1 1/2 cups of the water and the salt. Stir well. When it starts boiling, lower the heat and cook, partially covered, until water has almost completely evaporated.

- Add remaining water (less, if rice was rinsed) and continue cooking until all water has evaporated and the grains are cooked but slightly al dente (cooking will continue after you turn off the heat).

- Cover the pan, remove from heat and let stand for a few minutes. Fluff the rice with a fork before serving.

Brazilian beans

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 tablespoon diced bacon (optional)

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

1 (16 oz) can pinto beans (or small black beans), cooked with salt only

1 cup water, approximately (preferably filtered)

salt to taste

1 tsp green onion or chives, finely chopped

- Place the beans in a colander and rinse in cold water until there’s no more frothing on top of the beans.

- Heat oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add bacon, if using, and fry until golden brown.

- Add chopped garlic and fry until golden brown. Lower the heat.

- Add beans and, using the back of a spoon or ladle, smash some of the beans into a paste.

- Add about 1 cup of filtered water. Bring to a slow boil and cook until the broth is thick (heavy cream consistency) and brown colored - you might need to add a little more water. Season to taste with salt. Add chopped green onions or chives before serving.

Bom apetite!

Pancakes with Bananas (gluten-free)

I am probably a strange American since I find the classic buttermilk type pancakes completely unappealing even when I was a kid. Just ask my husband who thinks pancakes are the best breakfast EVER. Soon after we were married, it became my mission to find out a way to make them enjoyable, because it would be a looooong marriage of pancake complaining (on both our parts) otherwise.

I have analyzed why I do not like pancakes. First, I prefer proteins in the morning and rarely something sweet or high in white carbohydrates. My blood sugar goes through the roof and then I am sad and grumpy for the rest of the day. A fact that hubby seems to not mind from time to time in exchange for his beloved breakfast. I also find pancakes to be boring, often too baking powder-y tasting and syrup gaggingly sweet first thing in the morning.

I did discover I like fluffy, fluffy pancakes and with the help of a Brit, Jamie Oliver, I finally found a pancake I could enjoy… occasionally. His recipe is simple, contains protein rich eggs and over time I have adapted it to be even more appealing to my glycemic levels, by including a bit of almond flour. I recently found that an egg on the side keeps my blood sugar from crashing and provides even more pancakes to my husband- no more complaints from him for so many reasons!

We have also adapted the recipe to be gluten-free just because the flours are available in our pantry and it is a great place to use them. I don’t bother with adding any corn/potato starches or Xantham gums, but if you feel they will lack the “gluten” texture a pinch of those added to the flour could help.

Instead of all of that maple syrup I sauté whatever fruit I have lying around in a bit of butter with a splash or two of the syrup as well. Hubby has taught me to also warm the syrup and serve it in a little side dish, dunking each bite to perfection.

With this recipe I used bananas- in honor of one of our favorite Jack Johnson songs, Banana Pancakes, (which we of course sing whenever we make pancakes) but apples, pears, plums, berries or whatever is ripe and ready would all be a lovely substitution. Even rehydrated dried fruits would work well.

Please welcome the new Lilly-enjoyable-Hubby-Loveable-lower-glycemic-Pancakes:

Gluten-Free Pancakes with Banana-Nut Sauté

Serves 2 (generously)

3 eggs, separated

½ cup brown rice flour (or other flour of your choice)

½ cup almond flour (or other flour of your choice)

1 teaspoon baking powder

pinch of salt

½ cup milk plus 2 tablespoons (soy, almond, or even water will work instead)

3 tablespoons butter

1 banana, roughly sliced

about 8 pecan or walnut halves, broken into pieces

2 tablespoons juice (often orange, water could work in a pinch)

1 sprinkle of cinnamon

2 tablespoons maple syrup

Place the egg yolks in a large bowl and the egg whites in another to be whisked. Stir the flours, baking powder, salt and milk in with the yolks. Whisk the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Fold together.

Place a cast iron pan or non-stick skillet over medium heat. Rub a bit of the butter around the pan. Scoop on some of the batter- an ice cream scoop works nicely and helps the pancakes come out to the same size.

Cook the pancakes on one side until the wet side appears slightly dry, check the bottom, when it is a golden color flip them over and cook until the opposite side is golden. Continue with the remaining batter. As each pancake finishes place them in the serving dish in a warm oven (about 180-200 degrees).

Meanwhile, place the remaining butter in a separate skillet over medium-high heat. Add in the banana slices and sear until slightly golden. Toss and sauté them until they are hot and steamy leaving big chunks. Add in the broken nuts, juice cinnamon and maple syrup (add more of each to your desired taste). Simmer for a minute, reduce the heat and keep warm until the pancakes are done and serve alongside.

When the pancakes are all complete, add in however much maple syrup you will be using to the wiped out pan. Heat for just 1-2 minutes and serve in small bowls for each diner.

Why I created this blog

Since I first came to the U.S., in 1997 - to study English, after finishing a Bachelor’s degree in Linguistics at the University of Sao Paulo - I felt the urge for more information in English about Brazilian food and its gastronomic culture. I remember trying to cook my favorite recipes in Boston, MA (which has one of the largest populations of Brazilian immigrants in the U.S.), and trying to translate the recipes into English for friends at school. It was hard to find the ingredients, and even more difficult to locate proper equivalents for them and for the recipe’s processes in bilingual dictionaries. 

From then on, I decided to dedicate myself to these two passions: languages and cooking. I became a translator of cookbooks and studied culinary translations and the terminology of recipes during my Master’s and PhD degrees in English. I’ve also published an English-Portuguese dictionary of culinary expressions with my academic advisor in 2008 (I’ll post more details about my professional and academic CV here soon). My love for food became so unavoidable that I am now a student of the Culinary Arts program at El Centro College, Dallas, TX. 

I’ve decided to create this blog because, after all these years, despite the massive North American and worldwide interest in gastronomy in the last decades, and all of the information available on the web, to date, there are only a few books and websites on authentic Brazilian cuisine. Besides, not all of them are reliable and specifically aimed at non-Brazilian readers and cooks. Apparently, the world has “discovered” Latin American cuisine, but because (I guess) Brazil is a non-Spanish speaking country right in the middle of South America, it’s usually left out - although every now and then we see a TV show about “exotic” Brazilian food to the sound of good Cuban (!) music, or some other non-Brazilian music. So, I hope I can shed some light on those subjects with my posts.

Being a Brazilian myself, I may not be aware of some of the cultural and culinary differences between Brazil and the U.S. I beg you to ask me questions and to correct me if I don’t explain things adequately, or if my English sounds odd. And for the Brazilians that decide to follow this blog, please send me your comments and suggestions for themes to be addressed in future posts. Help me share the joy of our delicious food and culture with the English-speaking world.

I hope you all enjoy. 

Sejam bem-vindos!

Ginger-Cranberry Relish

We have spent the last several days relaxing and enjoying Christmas with my wonderful Mother-in-Law, Sharon. For Christmas dinner we enjoyed an amazing roast duck that we roasted on the barbeque and last night she invited a few of her friends (of Three Sisters Laughing) over for Turkey dinner. We again roasted it on the barbeque which had an amazing way of clearing space in the kitchen so we could use the oven for the rest of the dishes.

One of the biggest hits of the evening, especially for Sharon was my Ginger-Cranberry Relish. It is seriously the easiest way to get cranberries on a Holiday table (well, arguably opening a can is probably easier, but if you prefer freshness over cans I am still right).

This relish does rely on a food processor to make it. I plan to figure out a non-food processor recipe, but in the meantime do what you can to borrow one if need be as it is worth the ease and is delicious. Or if you are potluck-ing your holiday ask a guest to throw this one together.

You can also make this several days prior and the flavors meld and merge to be even more satisfying.

So, here is the recipe for you Sharon! Thank you for hosting us in your sweet home for the Holidays and being such a great sous-chef, too!

Cranberry-Ginger Relish
12 ounces cranberries (1 standard size bag)
1 whole orange, (thin-skinned if possible, navels work well)
¾ cup sugar (or more to taste)
¼ cup crystallized ginger, chopped
1 inch piece fresh ginger, finely minced
1 teaspoon ground ginger

Rinse the cranberries and sort through removing any that are no longer appetizing looking. Cut the orange into 8 pieces, removing any seeds. Place all of the ingredients in a food processor. Pulse lightly until everything is well chopped but not to mushy. Taste and add a touch more sugar or ginger if needed.

Enjoy alongside Turkey dinners or as a spread on Turkey Sandwiches.

Pomegranate-Orange Salad

Tis’ the season for this beautiful jeweled fruit!

I can’t think of a more festive fruit then the sparkly seeds of a pomegranate. Seriously, for me the Holidays are all about Red and Sparkles and what could satisfy that more than a “natural” version of Red-Sparkles.

This salad is a also a refreshing addition to the starch laden sides that grace most of our tables. Fruit, lettuce, a simple dressing and a touch a creamy goat cheese in between equal pure loveliness.

Removing the jewels can be a bit of a challenge. Simply cut in half and break into pieces. If you are like me, you will also want to cover yourself in an apron and protect anything else that make become splattered by your efforts. Some people break them apart underwater, but that will not work for this recipe as you want to reserve some of the bright red juice for the dressing.

Pomegranate-Orange Salad
4-6 servings
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
1 pomegranate, outside washed
2 oranges
1 teaspoon white wine or champagne vinegar
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 teaspoon each of salt and pepper (more to taste)
1/2 cup pecans, broken & crumbled
4 ounces goat cheese
4 cups of spring lettuce greens

Start with the red onion, place in warm water to mellow out the astringent flavors while you prepare the rest of the salad.

Cut the pomegranate in half. Working over a colander with a bowl below (and protective clothing on your body if you are like me and spray juice all over) gently loosen the seeds from the membranes breaking the pieces a part as needed. Discard the white membranes and allow any juices to drizzle into the bowl.

Slice off each end of one of the oranges. Carefully slice down along the orange, removing all of the skin and white pitch, just the fleshy center will be exposed without any of the white pith on the outside. Next cut down through the middle of the slices (leaving the pieces long) remove any seeds lay on the flat side and thinly slice along the oranges, so you have pretty fanned-half moon pieces. Any excess juice on the cutting board can be scraped into the bowl with the pomegranate juice.

Cut the second orange in half and juice it. You will want at least a 1/2 cup of juice. Add the vinegar. Whisk in the olive oil slowly and season with salt and pepper.

Arrange the lettuce on individual plates or salad bowls or in one large bowl. Arrange the orange segments and drained red onions on top, sprinkle on the pecans and goat cheese and top with the pomegranate seeds. Drizzle a few tablespoons of the dressing on top and enjoy.